Re[2]: Fiberspar twist locks slipping

From: Geoffrey Boehm (Geoffrey.Boehm@wj.com-DeleteThis)
Date: Fri Jun 11 1999 - 12:17:30 PDT

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Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 12:17:30 -0700
Message-Id: <001CCA40.C21407@wj.com-DeleteThis>
From: Geoffrey.Boehm@wj.com-DeleteThis (Geoffrey Boehm)
Subject: Re[2]: Fiberspar twist locks slipping
To: Multiple recipients of list <wind_talk@opus.hpl.hp.com-DeleteThis>, Alain Dumesny <alain@macromedia.com-DeleteThis>
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     To remove the end pieces, use a sheet rock (utility) knife. Cut the
     end piece PARALLEL to the boom tubing until you have cut cleanly
     through. This requires about 10 passes with a sharp blade - be
     careful. Once you have cut through, it can easily be pried off with a
     screwdriver inserted into the cut (or by twisting between the fingers
     of the end piece). The glue is not strong enough to be a problem.

     If you aren't careful, you will cut into the boom tubing itself, but
     this isn't really a problem, as the carbon is so hard that you only
     scratch it, you won't score it enough to weaken it.

     Once pried off, you must sand all the old glue off the boom tubing in
     order to allow the new end pieces to slip on. I use 80-100 grit emery
     cloth - you can buy this in rolls (used for sanding end of copper pipe
     and found in plumbing section). It only takes a minute of sanding to
     get it smooth enough (you don't have to get every last bit off).

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Subject: Re: Fiberspar twist locks slipping
Author: Alain Dumesny <alain@macromedia.com-DeleteThis> at INTERNET
Date: 6/11/99 11:59 AM

Maybe I have another boom, but when the end grip on my all carbon Neil Pryde
boom (same as fiberspar) no longer was holding the boom's length because the
teeth got worn down (this happened after I got tossed in the rinse rycle on the
coast - the boom end got forced in by a wave when hitting the bottom) I hard a
real hard time getting the end platic pieces off. I sawed them sideway and try
to squeze a flat screw driver in between to pop the end caps, but couldn't
cleanly. Maybe there was too much glue ? (maybe they had already been changed).

I ended up having to cut the boom shorter by about an inch and pop new end
pieces instead. I tend to sail smaller sizes anyway :-)

not exactly what I would call maintenance work though... I would expect a
$400+ piece of equipment to not have such a problem... cheap piece of plastic
that will eventually wear out. Why couldn't they use pins and holes like
chinnook ? Agrrrr...

Geoffrey Boehm wrote:
>
> BTW, the whole repair only takes about 15 minutes (though it takes
> several hours for the glue to set up). I just think of it as
> maintenance - I probably spend more money and way more time replacing
> worn lines.

*------------------------------------------------------------------*
Alain Dumesny
Principal Engineer - Macromedia, Dreamweaver project
alain@macromedia.com-DeleteThis
http://www.dreamweaver.com
http://home.pacbell.net/adumesny (personal)
Ph: 650-481-4527

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